On our nine-day trip to Beijing, we were led by Professor Yuri Pines in a fascinating and multifaceted exploration of Chinese culture, both past and present. We visited museums, temples and parks, ate wonderful local food and even watched an acrobatic performance. Through it all we were struck by the richness of Chinese culture and history which is evident in modern-day China, as well as the ways in which China has changed and evolved throughout the centuries.
On the first day of our trip, we visited the Temple of Heaven and the Capital Museum. On our visit to the Temple of Heaven, we learned about the changes that occurred over time in the concept of the “Mandate of Heaven”. We learned about how the temple was used to give thanks to Heaven for helping the government, and we were struck by the temple’s unique architecture; it does not “steal” the visitors’ focus from the emperor. The building itself is relatively simple; the square represents the earth, the circle represents heaven, and the dragon represents the emperor’s strength. The emperor would hold a special prayer in the temple in times of trouble, and the temple is built so that there is an echo that centers the emperor’s prayer, which we tested out, of course.
In the Capital Museum we learned about Beijing’s rich history and how it was not always under Chinese rule, nor was it always China’s capital. We were impressed by the museum’s archeological collection, where one thing that stood out in particular were jugs for serving alcohol from the Bronze Age, intricately decorated with different animals. This turned out to be a running theme which we would encounter many more times on our trip – the centrality of animals and non-human creatures (both real and mythical) in Chinese art and design.
On our second day we visited the Marco Polo Bridge and Memorial of War of Resistance to Japan, and the National Museum. We were exposed to the brutality employed by the Japanese in the invasion of China, a dark chapter in world history which unfortunately is not discussed enough in the West. As Jews, we felt that we could relate to the Chinese national trauma inflicted during the War of Resistance to Japan, and understand the importance of commemorating it. On the third day of our trip, we visited the Ming Tombs, where we were once again struck by the beautiful art incorporating animals – the pairs of statues placed along the path to the tombs, which showcase lions, elephants and camels, among other creatures, leading to statues of soldiers and scholars. The statues are meticulously designed and well preserved, and they make an impressive entrance to the tomb, commemorating the grandeur of the Ming dynasty.
From there we continued to the great wall, which we climbed so as to enjoy the stunning view of the surrounding mountains. We learned about how it has been built in sections for centuries, often at a great cost. An aspect of the Great Wall we found particularly interesting is how its perception in China has changed through the ages; from a symbol of government brutality and exploitation it has become a UNESCO world heritage site, a point of pride for China, and a major tourist attraction. It was a very special experience, walking along what is considered to be one of the greatest feats of human construction in history.
The next day, we visited the Forbidden City, where we learned about the emperors’ way of life and the structure of the court. We were impressed by the sheer size of the Forbidden City, and its architecture which is simultaneously exquisite and monotonous; we learned that this is meant to highlight the emperor’s greatness and to make the few officials who were allowed in to the Forbidden City to be aware of their own insignificance in comparison to the emperor. We were exposed to the magnitude of the Chinese emperors’ wealth, an impressive feat which tends to be overlooked in the Western historical perception of wealthy empires.
On the fifth day of our trip, we had the opportunity to meet our Chinese peers – PKU students – who treated us to a wonderful lunch in the university’s cafeterias, and told us about their studies and their interest in Israel. Due to our lack of knowledge in the Chinese language, this was a rare opportunity for us to talk to locals, and it was a pleasant and illuminating experience. After that we went on a walking tour of Yuanmingyuan, and were completely floored by its vastness and beauty. We enjoyed walking along the canals and taking photos in front of the wonderful views, in this oasis in the middle of hectic, urban Beijing.
The next day, we went to the Lama Temple, where we learned about Tibetan Buddhism and its history in China. We were impressed by the magnificent statues of the Buddha and other religious figures, particularly one which is 26 meters high and constructed entirely out of one trunk of sandalwood. Later on, we visited the Tanzhe temple, where we witnessed the lively liturgical activity which still takes place there. On the eighth day of our trip, we visited the Daoist Temple of White Clouds, and learned about the practical applications of the Daoist philosophy in Chinese culture to this day – tai chi, Chinese medicine, and feng shui – among other topics. Some of us even participated in the liturgy by burning incense and visiting specific gods in the temple.
We then visited the Summer Palace, a truly magnificent site, with its artificial lake and hills and notable temples which create Tibetan-like scenery. We learned about Empress Cixi, who built the summer palace, her unusual reign and disputed legacy. A particularly unforgettable sight was Empress Cixi’s marble boat; a remarkable architectural feat which did not serve any practical purpose, and now seems like a stark reminder of the empress’ failure to prepare China’s navy before the Sino-Japanese war. On the last day of our trip, we visited Beijing’s 798 art zone, and learned about modern art in China, a cultural phenomenon which is marked by heavy Western influences. We then met with representatives at the Israeli embassy, and heard a lecture on Chinese-Israel relations, before finally going to watch a stunning acrobatic performance.
Throughout our trip we were constantly surprised by how foreign some aspects of Chinese culture seem, while at the same time how it constantly highlights universally human themes and struggles: the individual’s place in society, the relationship between Man and nature, the importance of preserving history and searching for spiritual meaning. We feel privileged to have been exposed to Chinese culture in such a hands-on way – to experience its unique richness and complexity.
(tiferet frumkin)